I feel like
a broken record, but here I go again, apologising for the rather extensive
period of time in which I have not posted anything. However, a brief and
slightly stressful new job, the regular flu which turned into tonsillitis and
swollen glands simultaneously followed by some sort of chest infection both
limits content and ability to write anything worth writing, let alone worth
reading. But I am happy to say that apart from a slight tightness in my chest
and the occasional coughing fit, I am feeling better. And luckily, due to the
time of year I was not short on content to write, sick or not. Because an
Italian Christmas is an experience that simply begs to be written.
A few days
ago I saw a photo on Facebook that made me literally laugh out loud. The
picture itself wasn’t particularly funny, it was just a table completely
covered in plates of delicious food – not an unexpected picture for this time
of year. Then I saw the caption: Italians
“I’ll just get our a few snacks” I laughed because it is just so true. Now
bearing that in mind, I want you to try and imagine what meals are like when
they are supposed to be decadent. In
case you are having trouble, let me paint that picture for you.
First of all
the Christmas feast does not start on Christmas day, but Christmas Eve. Our several
course dinner began with freshly baked bread followed by seafood salad, two different
pasta dishes followed by deep fried veggies (which I still don’t understand – I
mean what is the point in eating veggies if you deep fry them in batter?!) and
fried fish finishing off with a choice of biscuits and cakes. Naturally all
accompanied by lots of good wine, grappa and loud, passionate conversation. Having
been in Italy for 9 months and despite having to speak English constantly I
have managed to pick up a sufficient amount of Italian to understand enough
that I can sit back, sip on my wine and watch and experience and listen,
soaking it all in. No matter how good the writer, I believe that it is simply
impossible to get across the feeling of sitting in amongst Italians, who love
life, family and food like no other culture I have experienced. When these
three things are put together around one table on Christmas Eve, you get an
experience of a life time.
As I have
already said, I have not been so well the last few weeks and so Christmas Eve
night ended early for me and I fell into a deliciously deep sleep which I was
not woken from until squeals let me know that the gifts left by Father
Christmas had been found by two very excited Italian children. I do not intend
to describe the unwrapping process of Christmas presents as I believe your own
experience in the matter should give a sufficient picture of the excited chaos
that followed.
Having
celebrated Christmas Eve with Massimo’s side of the family, by midmorning we
were all piled in the car ready to head off to Cesenatico to celebrate the rest
of Christmas Day with Filomena’s parents, her brother and his family. Due to
the fact that it was December 25th, the roads were all but deserted
and we made good time, arriving perfectly on time for lunch. I had though
Christmas Eve had been a feast, and having lived here for so long I should have
guessed, because Christmas Day lunch was the biggest feast of my life. I am
talking so much food that even when everyone had eaten their full there is
still enough food left over for another entire Christmas sized meal. So much
food I can’t list it because there was so much I don’t actually remember it
all. So much food there is left overs for the next week. Multiple starters, an
amazing pasta dish, so many plates of veggies and meat that to pass a plate to
one person has to work as an exchange.
“Can I have the chicken please?”
“Yeah sure, but you’ll have to pass
me the roast potatoes so that you can put the dish down”
And don’t
even get me started on dessert. You know on Christmas Day, you eat so much
lunch that you are sure you couldn’t eat any more, but then dessert comes out
and somehow you manage? Well, when our desserts came out I could only manage to
taste a few, because there were 4 different desserts alongside roasted
chestnuts, walnuts and dates. All I have left to say on the matter is that
dinner that night consisted only of a camomile tea and my antibiotics tablet.
Christmas
Day ended with Filomena, Massimo the kids and I bundled up in coats, hats,
scarfs and gloves taking a walk along the central Cesenatico canal. The last
time I had seen it, it was buzzing with bikini wearing teens giggling at boys,
families headed to the beach and venders selling towels and sun cream. But late
December, winter and Christmas night had completely transformed the place into
an arcade of glittering lights and stalls selling mulled wine, chocolate and
roasted chestnuts. Through speakers that I could not place, Christmas carols
accompanied the sounds of friends and families making their way along the
water’s edge, or standing by the huge, decorated Christmas tree in the middle
of the square. The ancient fishing boats that were moored in the canal now had
life size modals of fishermen, and in the largest there is the Angel Gabriel,
Mary and Joseph and baby Jesus. Everything about the place was completely
magical.
As I am sure
you have picked up, I had an amazing Christmas. So amazing in fact that I
didn’t even realise until the 26th that I had forgotten to
photograph the event. Though I would have loved to have photos, I truly believe
it shows what an incredible few days I was fortunate enough to experience. I
hope you all had an equally special Christmas and have a very Happy New Year!
